Orheiul Vechi

You'll round a bend and suddenly there it is — a limestone cliff with church windows carved directly into the rock. The complex dates back to the 13th century: cells, tunnels, a small church still in active use. Climb up through the caves and the valley below looks exactly like a medieval miniature. Down in Trebujeni you can get a meal at someone's house that tastes like their grandmother made it. The hike up takes twenty minutes. Budget two hours for everything.